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Understanding Rome
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The Aurelian Wall: Rome’s largest ancient monument, or “one thing too many”

The Aurelian Wall: Rome’s largest ancient monument, or “one thing too many”

Archeology, Architecture, Out of Town, Undervisited Rome museums

Tweet Once having found the Wall I could not forget it, or be unaware of its continuity. Its reemergences into view, out of covering buildings, never are not dramatic: whether in view or not it is there, and shapes one’s sense of the city. – Elizabeth...
Astrolabes and Armour: The Studiolo of Federico da Montefeltro at Urbino

Astrolabes and Armour: The Studiolo of Federico da Montefeltro at Urbino

Art History, Early Renaissance, Out of Town

Tweet At the heart of Federico’s Palace at Urbino, of which I spoke in my last post, was his studiolo, a tiny inner sanctum for study and reflection, and a place which served to advertise his erudition to visitors. Created by 1476, its lower level is clad...
“The light of Italy”: The Ducal Palace at Urbino

“The light of Italy”: The Ducal Palace at Urbino

Architecture, Early Renaissance, Out of Town

Tweet On the slopes of the Apennines, almost in the centre of Italy towards the Adriatic, is situated, as everyone knows, the little city of Urbino. … Among the blessings and advantages that can be claimed for it, I believe the greatest is that for a long time...
Hippopotamuses and Lotus flowers: The Nile mosaic at Palestrina

Hippopotamuses and Lotus flowers: The Nile mosaic at Palestrina

Archeology, Architecture, Art History, Egypt, Empire, Out of Town, Palestrina, Roman Art

Tweet Last week a visiting friend and I braved the torrential rain to run an errand in Zagarolo. Our mission accomplished, we stopped for a spot of lunch before meandering to Palestrina. Snaking our way through the medieval streets, in a car as wide as the roads, we...
Going underground: The Columbarium of Pomponio Hylas

Going underground: The Columbarium of Pomponio Hylas

Archeology, Architecture, Art History, Empire, Out of Town, Rome

Tweet I’ve mentioned (here and here) my fondness for clambering improbable staircases to view long bricked-in frescoes. Just as good, if not better, is making an appointment through the city heritage office to meet a key-bearing guard in an unlikely looking spot. One...
Overcoming the “otherness” of the Etruscans, with the help of D.H. Lawrence

Overcoming the “otherness” of the Etruscans, with the help of D.H. Lawrence

Archeology, Etruscans, Out of Town

Tweet When I was in London over Christmas I met my friend Annabel at the British Museum. After coffee and a look at about four things (the BM is free which makes this wonderfully possible) we wandered over to the London Review Bookshop. I vowed I wasn’t going to buy...

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Even on a busy Saturday afternoon you can have ext Even on a busy Saturday afternoon you can have extraordinary masterpieces all to yourself in the Vatican Museums.
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Going underground.. Going underground..
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