I was delighted to see the handful of words Conde Nast Traveller had asked me for in this month’s edition. Lodged between Rome’s former mayor, Walter Veltroni, and Rome’s only three star Michelin chef, Heinz Beck. Who was in turn just above Matthew Kneale. Illustrious company indeed. They’d asked for my favourite “hidden” spot. So I chose the Bessarion Chapel, about which more here.